Author’s Note: This is a series of selected highlights from two years (1986-88) of budget backpacker travel through 15 countries and a half-dozen US States – hosted all along the way by national and local YMCAs – from the Pacific Islands to selected Asian countries including: Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Burma, The Philippines, Hong Kong, Macau, China, Taiwan, Korea, Japan – and the USA.
“Hey Joe!” “Hey Boss!” Why does everybody think my name is Joe? A naturally beautiful country with a pleasant Asia-Pacific mix, the Philippines is loaded with friendly, fun-loving and talented people — especially the musicians, who are truly amazing — and most major hotels have a live band. English is widely spoken as well, so it was easy to connect with the people and the place, even if it didn’t feel as different or “exotic” as some of the other Asian countries I had visited.
But after 500 years of Spanish rule and a further 100 years under the Americans, the culture seemed hopelessly buried beneath Catholicism and the most annoying aspects of American culture. Despite all this, I soon realized it would be easy to stay for awhile.
After a warm welcome at the YMCAs in the capital Manila and Baguio City in northern Luzon, I set off on a three-day trek through rugged mountain terrain in the cool, rain-washed air near the town of Banaue, and past incredible 2000-year-old hand-carved rice terraces reaching to the sky
Staying with the indigenous Ifugao people in pine-forested highlands near the town of Segada, I was led through a huge cave where we waded across ice-cold cascades and used ropes to guide us through dark, narrow crawl spaces. Back in the village, as the warm tropical rains subsided, the women used brooms to swat down mayflies from the swarms drifting lazily skyward, to add to our evening meal.
On Palawan Island, also known as “the last frontier” of the Philippines, roadside stalls sold hand towels (probably my most important purchase of the entire trip!) to wrap around our heads and faces to ward off the thick, choking clouds of dust as our WWII vintage ‘Jeepney’ set off from the provincial capital Puerto Princessa.
Barreling wildly along the dusty, rutted tracks, we roared through jungle-clad mountains, past tiny village hamlets and fields of ripe rice backed by sheer limestone cliffs, out to wild, deserted beaches and finally to the scenic port of El Nido, famous for its extraordinary natural beauty and diverse ecosystem.
Back in the capital, tanks rolled into Manila’s central business district, for the “People Power” uprising. Suddenly, shops closed and even the shotgun-wielding bank guards fled the scene — as we did — catching the last flight out before the airport closed. Traveling with Jackie, a local nursing student, we headed south for a month of island hopping through spectacular coastal mountains and braved wild, stormy crossings in dangerously overloaded ferryboats and broken-down outriggers.
Traveling by bus and boat to Mindoro Island, we gave Puerto Galera a miss, and continued instead to the much quieter Talipanan Beach, where we enjoyed some hiking and snorkeling in the crystal clear waters teeming with colorful reef life.
A spectacular Jeepney ride took us through the scenic coastal mountains south of Calapan City, and then by ferry and bus to the City of Roxas, where we embarked on a particularly hair-raising voyage in the midst of a rising typhoon. Clinging to the deck of a badly overloaded outrigger that threatened to disappear into the massive ocean swells, we eventually arrived at Tablas Island and finally, tiny Boracay Island.
Like Samoa in Polynesia, Phi Phi Island and Krabi in Thailand, Tioman Island in Malaysia, the Spice Islands of Indonesia, and so many other amazing tropical gems – so utterly magical with the seemingly endless exuberance of the rural people, especially the kids – all bright smiles and laughter, the easy movement of the island women, small bamboo houses nestled in the greenest fields of ripe rice, or tucked away against the lush, forested hillsides. Indulging in the sea’s calming surge, warm and gentle – almost therapeutic – and feeding my soul, as did the realization of the ocean’s vast, overwhelming power and mystery. It felt great to get fit and enjoy special friendships, and exchanging smiles and friendly hellos with everybody.
But I was also eager to see my brother Dave who would be meeting me in Hong Kong for more adventures that awaited us there. I also had meetings lined up at the regional offices of the Asia Alliance of YMCAs, which is located in Hong Kong.
So, after a brief drift at sea in a broken-down outrigger, Jackie and I reached Tablas Island and boarded a Jeepney for another spectacular drive through the countryside. A plane brought us back to Manila to catch my flight to Hong Kong — and once again, it was killing me to leave. But it was comforting to know that soon I would be returning to this island paradise.
Stay tuned for Asia-Pacific Tour: The Philippines (Part Two)– coming soon!
Traveling Road Show 